Monserrat
It´s a particularly good barrio for those who like nosing around old churches. The Basílica de Santo Domingo and the adjoining Basílica Nuestra Señora del Rosario, at Defensa and Belgrano, are important 18th century centres of worship. One of the towers of the former was punctured by bullets during the two almost laughably incompetent English Invasions of 1806 and 1807. The flags seized from the vanquished invaders are on display in the far corner, left of the altar.
It´s a particularly good barrio for those who like nosing around old churches. The Basílica de Santo Domingo and the adjoining Basílica Nuestra Señora del Rosario, at Defensa and Belgrano, are important 18th century centres of worship. One of the towers of the former was punctured by bullets during the two almost laughably incompetent English Invasions of 1806 and 1807. The flags seized from the vanquished invaders are on display in the far corner, left of the altar.
- Manzana de las Luces. 272 Perú St, between Moreno and Alsina. (4342 3964). Open: noon - 3pm Tue Wed & Fri; 3pm - 7 pm Sat Sun. Admission: free, guided tours $2.
- Museo de la Ciudad. 412 Alsina St and Chacabuco (4331 9855) Open: 11am - 7pm Mon-Fri; 3pm-7pm Sat Sun & public holidays. Admission: free.
San Telmo
Heading to San Telmo from the Plaza de Mayo, Defensa and Balcarce are the most pleasant and scenic streets to walk along. The former is lined with antique shops while the latter is a quieter, cobblestoned street packed with tango venues and tiny cafés. While walking you will pass several of the tattered mansions and drooping balconies that give San Telmo its unmistakable mood and appereance. To see the inside of an 1880 house, visit the lovely Pasaje de la Defensa (at 1179 Defensa St), a refurbished two-storey mansion now bristling with souvenir stands.
On Sundays, Plaza Dorrego, one of the few plazas in the city where you can eat and drink al fresco, is taken over by traders, providing one of BA´s most popular days out.
Heading to San Telmo from the Plaza de Mayo, Defensa and Balcarce are the most pleasant and scenic streets to walk along. The former is lined with antique shops while the latter is a quieter, cobblestoned street packed with tango venues and tiny cafés. While walking you will pass several of the tattered mansions and drooping balconies that give San Telmo its unmistakable mood and appereance. To see the inside of an 1880 house, visit the lovely Pasaje de la Defensa (at 1179 Defensa St), a refurbished two-storey mansion now bristling with souvenir stands.
On Sundays, Plaza Dorrego, one of the few plazas in the city where you can eat and drink al fresco, is taken over by traders, providing one of BA´s most popular days out.
- Museo de Arte Moderno. 350 San Juan Av, between Defensa and Balcarce (4361 1121). Open 10am-8pm Tue-Fri;11am-8pm Sat. Closed: Feb. Admission: free.
- Museo de la Caricatura "Severo Vaccaro". 1037 Lima St, between Carlos Calvo and Humberto Pirmo (4304 6947). Open: 3pm-8pm Thur, Fri (call in advance to arrange guided tour) Admission: free.
- Museo del Cine. 1220 Defensa St, between San Juan y Cochabamba (4361 2462) Open: 10am-7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-6.30pm Sat Sun. Admission free.
- Museo Histórico Nacional. 1600 Defensa St and Casaros (4307 1182) Open 11am-5pm Tue Fri; 3pm-6pm Sat; 2pm-6pm Sun. Admission: $2
- El Zanjón de Granados. 755 Defensa St, between Chile and Independencia (4361 3002) Open: 11am-5pm Mon-Fri (tours on the hour) Admission $20.
La Boca
With its seedy cantinas and crowded tenements, the waterfront quarter of la Boca still feels like the melting pot where tango was first cooked up a century ago.
This working-class barrio, which derives its name from its location at the mouth of the Riachuelo, stretches from the river right up the roundabout where Paseo Colón Av becomes Martín García Av, and where a mast and 3-D frieze announce that you are entering the "República de la Boca".
Set back from the river, on Brandsen, is the reason why people who have never been to BA have heard of La Boca -the stadium Alberto J Armando, best known as La Bombonera, where football team Club Atlético Boca Juniors have held court for nearly a century. The Museo de la Pasión Boquense, is located adjacent to the stadium´s entrance. From the museum´s entrance a disused railway track runs down Garibaldi (where fugitive Nazi Adolf Eichmann lived from some years before Mossad caught up with him), which comes out two blocks later at the back end of Caminito, a short, banana shaped pedestrianised theme street.
The Riachuelo, which for over a century was a repository for cattle carcases and chemicals, is still nearer black than brown in hue. Progress has been made in cleaning it up, but the only real change has been to remove the rusty barges that gave La Boca some character.
With its seedy cantinas and crowded tenements, the waterfront quarter of la Boca still feels like the melting pot where tango was first cooked up a century ago.
This working-class barrio, which derives its name from its location at the mouth of the Riachuelo, stretches from the river right up the roundabout where Paseo Colón Av becomes Martín García Av, and where a mast and 3-D frieze announce that you are entering the "República de la Boca".
Set back from the river, on Brandsen, is the reason why people who have never been to BA have heard of La Boca -the stadium Alberto J Armando, best known as La Bombonera, where football team Club Atlético Boca Juniors have held court for nearly a century. The Museo de la Pasión Boquense, is located adjacent to the stadium´s entrance. From the museum´s entrance a disused railway track runs down Garibaldi (where fugitive Nazi Adolf Eichmann lived from some years before Mossad caught up with him), which comes out two blocks later at the back end of Caminito, a short, banana shaped pedestrianised theme street.
The Riachuelo, which for over a century was a repository for cattle carcases and chemicals, is still nearer black than brown in hue. Progress has been made in cleaning it up, but the only real change has been to remove the rusty barges that gave La Boca some character.
- Caminito
- Museo de Bellas Artes de La Boca Benito Quinquela Martín. 1835 Don Pedro de Mendoza Av. (4301 1080). Open: 10am - 5pm Tue-Fri; 11am - 5.30pm Sat, Sun. Admission: suggested contribution $1.
- Museo de Cera. 1261 Del Valle Iberlucea St. (4301 1497) Open 10am - 6pm Mon-Fri; 10am - 8pm Sat, Sun. Admission: $6.50; free under -6s.
- Museo de la Pasión Boquense. 805 Brandsen St (4362 1100). Open: 10am - 7pm daily (closed on match days). Admission: $12 museum only; $20 museum & tour; 50% discount concessions. Credit cards: AmEx. DC, MC, V.
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