Restaurants

These are the restaurants I love. Reservations are essential!!!

Key:
V ->Visa
AX -> American Express
MC -> Mastercard
For prices per person:
20$-40$ -> $
40$-70$ -> $$
70$ & more -> $$$

Argentinian Traditional

• El Obrero: 64 Caffarena St, La Boca. Ph. 4362 9912. Only Cash. $. Typical argentinian cantina, noisy, variety of food. Don´t miss the provoleta (grilled cheese)!


• El Desnivel: 855 Defensa St, San Telmo. Ph. 4300-9081. $. Very simple parrilla in a beautiful street in San Telmo. Steak or steak.


• La Cupertina: 5296 Cabrera St, Palermo. Ph. 4777-3711. Only cash. $. Incredible empanadas, specially the giant vegetable empanadas that look like a tiny pie. They serve other things beside empanadas, but I never tried.


• Miranda: 5602 Costa Rica St and Fitz Roy, Palermo. Ph. 4771-4255. V MC. $. One of my favourite restaurants for lunch time. Always fresh, everybody loves Miranda. Don´t miss the ensaladas (salads) and BBQ also rules!


• Standard: Guatemala and Fitz Roy, Palermo. Ph. 4779-2774. V AX. $$. Nice little restaurant in Palermo Hollywood. Clasical argentinian food.


• Almacén Secreto: 1626 Humboldt St, Palermo. Ph. 4775 1271. Only cash. $. Secret and exclusive little restaurant (3 tables only) where they serve typical northern food and wines. From Thursdays to Saturdays at night and only with reservation.


• A Los Amigos: 701 Loyola St, Villa Crespo (close to Palermo). Ph. 4777 0422. V. $. Informal and noisy cantina, great food.


• El Pobre Luis: 2393 Arribeños St, Belgrano. Ph. 4780-5847 / 4782-4488. V MC AX. $$. Nice, simple parrilla, great steak.
  

Argentinian Modern

• Gran Bar Danzón: 1161 Libertad St, Downtown. 1st floor. Ph. 4811 1108. V MC AX. $$. International food, great wine bar!


• Bar 6: 1676 Armenia St, Palermo. Ph. 4833 6807. V MC AX. $$. Very nice old house, close to shopping area in Palermo Soho. Great dishes!


• Bar Uriarte: 1572 Uriarte St, Palermo. Ph. 4834 6004. V MC AX. $$. Danzón and Sucre´s same owners. Pasta, fish, meat. Some dishes prepared in brick oven. Also walking distance to shopping area in Palermo.


• Bo Bo: 4882 Guatemala St, Palermo. Ph. 4774 0505. V MC AX. $. Restaurant located in Bo Bo Hotel, cute and the quality of the food is excellent.
  


• Casa Cruz: 1658 Uriarte St, Palermo. Ph. 4833 1112. V AX MC. $$. Posh, trendy restaurant. Combined dishes, very original but not for everybody.


• Cluny: 4618/22 El Salvador St, Palermo. Ph. 4831 7176. V MC AX. $$. French/ mediterranean food. Wi Fi. Tables outside.


• Freud & Fahler: 1750 Gurruchaga St, Palermo. Ph. 4833 2153. V AX. $. Nice little restaurant in Palermo Soho, excellent food! Tables outside.


• Social Paraiso: 5182 Honduras St, Palermo. Ph. 4831 4556. V AX. $. Short menu but everything is well prepared, nice combination of ingredients. Walking distance from Palermo´s shopping area.


• Sucre: 676 Sucre St, Belgrano. Ph 4782 9082. V AX MC. $$$. Big restaurant, noisy. Great ambientation. Excellent wine menu.
• Café San Juan: 450 San Juan St, San Telmo. Ph 4300 1112. Only Cash. $$. Simple restaurant, good cuisine.
• Bar El Federal: Perú and Carlos Calvo. Ph 4300 4313. V MC AX. $. Traditional bar.
  

Steak Houses

• La Brigada: 465 Estados Unidos St, San Telmo. Ph. 4361 5557. V AX MC. $$. Best steak house in Buenos Aires!! Steak is amazing, portions are big and the entrees are also very good. Not to miss the provoleta and the empanadas!
  
• La Dorita: 1911 Humboldt St, Palermo. Ph. 4773 0070. $. Only cash. Tables outside. Simple restaurant with great food, amazing the meat prepared in brick oven. I love it! Wi Fi.


• La Dorita de Enfrente: 1872 Humboldt St, Palermo. Ph 4776 5653. Only Cash. $. Wi Fi, terrace and tables outside. Always so packed that they had to inaugurate a new one!


• Cabaña las Lilas: 516 Alicia Moreau de Justo Av, Puerto Madero. Ph. 4313 1336. V AX. $$$. Turistical parrilla. Steak, service and ambientation are great! Ask the sommelier which wine goes with your dish. Tables outside facing the river. One of the best in Puerto Madero´s area.


• La Cabaña: 1967 Rodriguez Peña St, Recoleta. Ph. 4814 0001. V MC AX. $$$. Valet parking, Wi Fi, tables outside. Beautiful restaurant, close to best hotels in recoleta.


• La Cabrera: 5099 Cabrera St, Palermo. Ph. 4831 7002. V AX MC. $$. Great and big portions, steak always accompanied with great variety of sauces.


• La Cabrera Norte: 5127 Cabrera St, Palermo. Ph. 4832 5754. V MC AX. $$. As good as its original.

Italian Cuisine

• Guido´s: 2843 República de la India St, Palermo. 4802 2391. Only Cash. $$. Very original restaurant in which you won´t find a menu but the owner is going to choose what to serve. get ready to eat non stop great italian food!
  
• La Parolaccia: 1052 Alicia Moreau de Justo Av, Puerto Madero. 4343 1679/4345 4742. V. $$.
  Riobamba 1046, Recoleta. 4812 1043. V AX MC. $$. One of the most famous italian restaurants in Argentina. Pasta incredible, sauces amazing and b-days there are a must.
  
• Sottovoce: 1098 del Libertador St and Ayacucho. 4807 6691. V MC AX. $$. As simple as this: amazing food!
  


• Il Matterello. 517 Martín Rodríguez St, La Boca. 4307 0529. AX. $$. Very nice little restaurant. Home-made pasta.
  

French Cuisine

• Brasserie Petanque: 595 Defensa St, San Telmo. 4342 7930. V MC AX. $. French´s owner Petanque is situated in famous Defensa street. Authentic, nice, great menu!
  


• Nectarine: 1661 Vicente López St, Recoleta. 4813 6993. V MC AX. $$$. Unique menu!
  

Spanish Cuisine

• Oviedo: 2602 Beruti St, Recoleta. 4821 3741/ 4822 5415. V AX MC. $$$. Well-decorated, excellent cuisine. Don´t miss the paella and the wide list of Spanish wines.
  


• Museo del Jamón: 8 Cerrito St, Downtown. 4382 4144. AX. $$. Spanish modern atmosphere. Wide menu, great for tapas!
  

Pizza

• El Cuartito: 937 Talcahuano St, Recoleta. 4816 1758/4331. V MC AX. $. Typical argentinian pizzería, very common, amazing pizza.
  


• Guerrín: 1368 Av. Corrientes , Downtown. 4371 8141. Only Cash. $. My favorite pizzería in Buenos Aires! Cooked in brick oven. Try the "suprema". The place is very argentinian, common, noisy.
  


• Angelín: 5270 Córdoba Av, Palermo. 4774 3836. Only cash. $. Traditional pizzería.
  

Japanese

• Dashi: 16113 Fitz Roy St, Palermo. 4776 3500. V MC AX. $$. Elegant sushi restaurant. Spectacular sushi and salads!
  

Peruvian Japanese

• Osaka: 5608 Soler St, Palermo. 4775 6964. Only Cash. $$. Book in advance, they never have room. Everybody loves Osaka!!! Sushi and tiraditos are INCREDIBLE! atmosphere and service as well. Don´t miss it!!!
  

Mexican

• María Félix: 5200 Guatemala ST, Palermo. 4775 0380. V MC AX. $$. Big restaurant, dishes to be shared. Fajitas rule! Tables outside.
  


• Cielito Lindo: 4999 El Salvador St, Palermo. 4832 8054. Only Cash. $. Nice food, low price, colorful.
  

Middle Eastern

• Bereber: 1880 Armenia St, Palermo. 4833 5662. V MC DC AX. $$. Beautiful place. Great tagines and cous cous! Tables outside. Save room for dessert's!!!
  


• El Manto: 5802 Costa Rica St, Palermo. 4774 2409. V DC MC AX. $. Best armenian restaurant in Buenos Aires. Beautiful terrace. Wi Fi.
  

North American

• Kansas: 4625 del Libertador Av, Las Cañitas. 4776 4100. V MC DC AX. $$. They don´t make reservations and it´s always packed. If you decide to go here you´ll have to wait. The best Caesar salad in Buenos Aires, specially the one with shrimps. I can´t order anything else but the BBQ ribs, A MA ZING!!! (meat and fish always come with a salad).
  

Scandinavian

• Olsen: 5870 Gorriti St, Palermo. 4776 7677. V MC AX. $$. The nicest garden, ideal for nice spring days. It´s beautiful inside as well. 50 brands of quality vodkas. Sunday brunch. Wi Fi.
  

South East-Asian

• Green Bamboo: 5802 Costa Rica St, Palermo. 4775 7050. V MC DC AX. $$. Elegant restaurant. Original dishes and great drinks. Definitely a must-go.
  


• Sudestada: 5602 Guatemala St, Palermo. 4776 3777. V AX. $$. Original dishes, exotic drinks, minimalist decor.

Kosher

• El Pasaje Resto & Bar: 3141 Pasaje el Lazo, Palermo. 4806 0084. Only Cash. $$. Delivery. Tables outside.
  

• Al Galope: 2663 Tucumán St, Downtown. 4963 6888. V MC DC AX. $.

• Mamá Jacinta: 2580 Tucumán St, Downtown. 4962 9149/7535. V MC DC AX. $. Delivery.
  

Sightseeing - Along the River

Chances to enjoy the Coast may seem rare in BA, but beside the big, brown river there are plenty of eating, strolling and nature-watching opportunities.

Puerto Madero and Costanera Sur

Puerto Madero - the dockland area to the east of Plaza de Mayo- first saw rejuvenation along the lines of London and Baltimore in the early 1990's with a new-look quayside, flashy restaurants and high-rent flats. Only recently, though, has the riverside zone grained some depth, with projects of a civic, cultural and commercial slant springing up along the promenades of BA´s newest barrio.
A short stroll to the south are the promenades of Puerto Madero's ever expanding dockland complex, a world created for the rich and beautiful. At the entrance to the quays, on the eastern side of Dique (Dock) 4, among the steel and glass of Madero Este (as the eastern side of the docks -now the focus of all the big investment bucks -is called), an art museum to house the collection of Amalia Fortabat, Argentina's richest women. It's an appropriate location: according to recent survey real estate prices in Madero Este area are now the highest in Latin America.
Stretching in front of the Sarmiento is the elegant Puente de la Mujer (Bridge of the Lady), an asymmetrical pedestrian bridge designed by Spanish engineer Santiago Calatrava. Opened to acclaim in December 2001, the bridge's US$ 6 million construction costs were stumped up by Alberto R Gonzalez, late owner of much of Madero Este , including its Hilton Hotel. The Hilton now faces competition from the Faena Hotel + Universe, a Philippe Starck-designed hotel.
Beyond Madero Este is an altogether earthier experience , the River Plate's other urban jungle. This is the Reserva Ecologica Costanera Sur, BA's biggest wilderness on the edge of the city. The long esplanade skirting the reserve is one of the city's most pleasant spaces for walking, sunbathing and inhaling something other than sulphur dioxide. A lavish 1927 beer keller, the Cerveceria Munich, houses the centro de Museos from where all the city's museums are administered. A tour of the picturesque pub gives an insight into how the good life used to be lived by rich weekenders.

• Buque Museo Fragata Sarmiento: 900 Alicia Moreau de Justo Av and Belgrano St. Dock 3. (4334 9336/86/89). Open 9am-8pm daily. Admission: $2; free under -5s.
• Reserva Ecologica Costanera Sur: 1550 Tristan Achaval Rodriguez Av, between Brasil and Estados Unidos (4893 1588 freephone 0800 444 5343). Open: Apr-Sept 8am-5.45pm Tue Sun. Oct-Mar 8am-6.45pm Tue-Sun. Admission: free.
• Museo de Calcos y Esculturas Comparadas: 1701 Tristan Achaval Rodriguez Av, Costanera Sur (4361 4419). Open: 9.30am-noon. Tue-Fri; 11.30am-5pm Sat. Admission: free.

Costanera Norte

North of town, skirting the Aeroparque Jorge Newbery -the city airport that runs the length of Palermo- is a traditional promenade. One of the few places where the mud-coloured river laps close to the land, the paved thoroughfare contains numerous restaurants and is thronged most Sundays with anglers, walkers and mate-supping, picnic-eating day-trippers. Cyclists have the slalom their way through the crowds, though a new bike path has eased congestion. The main road -Avenida Costanera Rafael Obligado - hums with traffic heading out of the city and the boeings zooming overhead make the noise pollution almost comic. But it's dramatic in an urban jetsetter kind of way, and at least you can turn your head and watch yachts gliding across the water. The city's beach clubs, where thousands of families go to beat the heat during the sweltering summer months, dot the avenue.
At the southern end of the airport is the chalet-style Club de Pescadores, a private fishing club of which Carlos Gardel was once member. The pier is for the club's anglers , but visitors can dine in the airy restaurant. North of the airport is wacky religious theme park Tierra Santa which has become one of BA's most popular attractions since opening at the turn of the millennium.
On the final northern curve of the Costanera Norte, close to the Ciudad Universitaria, is the Parque de la Memoria, which is being developed in remembrance of Argentinian victims of human rights violations under the 1970s military dictatorship. Completed in 2005, the park's central work is the Monumento de las Victimas del Terrorismo de Estado, containing stone tablets bearing the names of Argentina's 'disappeared', many of whom where drugged and then thrown to their deaths from planes into the adjacent river. The Plaza de Acceso includes works of American sculptors Dennis Oppenheim and William Tucker.
For a boat trip along this part of the river, head to Puerto Madero's Darsena Norte (Northern Harbour), from where the Galileo makes a two hour tour on weekends.

• Tierra Santa.5790 Costanera Rafael Obligado Av. (4784 9551). Open: May-Nov 4pm-12.30am Fri-Sun. Dec-Apr 9am-9pm Fri: noon-11pm Sat, Sun. Admission: $15; $4 under -11s. Credit: MC, V.
  

Sigthseeing - West of the Centre

The cities western districts are realworld Buenos Aires - where ordinary porteños live, work and die.

Once & Abasto

Once (pronnounced 'on-say'), about 20 blocks west along Avenida Corrientes from downtown, is the city´s most hectic commercial district -a warren of wholesale and retail outlets, the noise and colour all reminiscent of an Arabian souk. Visitors who have bougth into the cliché of Buenos Aires being the 'Paris of South America' should take a brief detour here - Once is a loud, bustling and brash as a Guatemalan bus station. Historically associated with the City´s large Jewish population, it is now also home to sizable Korean, Middle Eastern and Peruvian communities.
Here, latin dance beats blast out from every other store and the selling of tack and trash spills onto the streets as visual pollution is taken to extremes. If you like streile shopping malls forget Once, although it certainly deserves a jaunt just to experience what local author Alvaro Abós calls a 'branch of hell'. And adventorous shoppers will delight in sinking deep into Once´s serpentine gut in search of the cheap and bizarre.
Just along from Once, at Avenida Corrientes and Anchorena, is the beautiful Mercado de Abasto building, an art deco masterpiece built between 1930 and 1934 as a central wholesale market serving the entire city. It was neglected for decades, and the buildings powerful, but empty , presence became symbolic of the Abasto neighbourhood´s downward spiral into a seedy scene of blues, booze and cocaine.
in 1998 the market building was the first in the barrio to see rejuvenation, converted into a shopping mall known as El Abasto. Inside tha mall is the Museo de los Niños Abasto (Abasto Children´s Museum), three floors of informative displays about the commercial and industrial activities of Buenos Aires.
Tha mall´s sorrounding ten blocks are currently undergoing a full makeover, with tango as the guiding theme.

• Centro Cultural Ricardo Rojas. Avenida Corrientes 2038, between Junín and Ayacucho. (4954 5521). Open: 10am-11pm Mon-Sut; varies Sun. Admission: varies.
  
• Museo Casa Carlos Gardel. Jean Jaures 735, between San Luis and Viamonte (4964 2015) Open: 11am-6pm Mon, Wed-Fri; 10am-7pm Sat, Sun. Admission: $3; free Wed.
  

Sightseeing - North of the Centre.

In 1871, when the wealthy fled a yellow fever epidemic in the previously affluent southern barrios, they gravitated en masse northwards to Barrio Norte. Mansions and palaces soon spread to Recoleta and Palermo, today the most European of all city´s districts.

Recoleta & Barrio Norte

Famed above all else for its cemetery, there´s plenty more to see and do in Recoleta and its sub-barrio, Barrio Norte (the upscale residential area between Las Heras Av. and Córdoba Av.).
Next to the cemetery´s entrances is the Basílica Nuestra Señora del Pilar, founded in 1716 by Jesuit missionaries. You can visit the cloisters, the crypt beneath the church, on the site of what was once a Fransiscan convent, is the superb Centro Cultural Recoleta, with its exhibition spaces devoted to contemporary visual artworks.
Plaza Francia, directly north-east of the cultural centre, is commandeered on weekends by a popular handicrafts fair which draws tourists, students and neo-hippies. Across Posadas St. is the belle époque Palais de Glace, an elegant salon where, in the 1920s, tango was officially embraced by the bourgeoisie. More recently it has been adopted by the city for high-profile art exhibitions and fashion shows.

• Cementerio de la Recoleta. 1760 Junin St, between Guido and Vicente López. (4803 1594) Open: 7am - 5.45 daily. Admission: free.
  
• Museo Casa de Ricardo Rojas. 2837 Charcas St, between Anchorena and Laprida. (4824 4039) Open: 10am - 6pm Mon-Fri. Admission:suggested contribution $1.
  
• Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo: 1902 Libertador Av, corner Pereyra Lucena (4801 8248) Open: 2pm - 7pm daily. Closed: 1st 2 weeks Jan. Admission: $8, free tuesdays.
  
• Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. 1473 Libertador Av, corner Pueyrredón. Open:12.30pm - 7.30pm Tue-Fri; 9.30am - 7.30pm Sat,Sun. Admission: free.
• Museo Xul Solar. 1212 Laprida St, between Mansilla and Charcas. (4824 3302). Open: noon - 7.30pm Tue-Fri; noon - 7pm, Sat. Closed: Jan, Feb. Admission: $3.

Palermo

Confusingly, numerous subdivisions exist between Palermo, but everyone accepts three basic areas: tiny Palermo Chico for embassies and the filthy rich; atmospheric Palermo Viejo (comprisins so-called Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood) for global cuisine and funky boutiques; and plain Palermo for the rest, including all the greenery.
From Palermo´s Cavia to Monroe street in Belgrano (the next barrio up) there is a patchwork of parks and plazas amassed round the Parque Tres de Febrero, formerly a flood plain until drained in the late 16th century by the barrio´s namesake, Italian Giovanni Domenico Palermo. At the northernmost limit of the park is the Hipodromo Argentino racecourse.
Although you may stroll into Palermo as a continuation of your wanderings through Recoleta, the point of access to the peaceful green heart of the park that has the most public transport option is Plaza Italia. It´s also one of the noisest junctions in the city and far cry from the lawned idylls that punctuate most of the area.

• Jardín Botánico Carlos Thays. 3951 Santa Fe Av. (4831 4527) Open: Nov-Mar 8am-8pm; Apr-Oct 9am-6pm. Admission: free.
  
• Jardín Japonés. Berro Av. and Casares St. (4804 4922). Open: 10am-6pm daily. Admission: $3 Mon-Fri, $4 Sat, Sun.
• Jardín Zoológico. Santa Fe Av and Las Heras Av (4011 9900) Open: 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. Admission: $12.50; free under -12s.
• Malba: Colección Costantini. 3415 Figueroa Alcorta Av, between Salguero and San Martín de Tours. (4808 6500). Open: noon-8pm Mon, Thur-Sun; noon-9pm Wed. Admission: $10; $5 concessions; free on Wed.
• Museo de Artes Plásticas Eduardo Sívori. 555 Infanta Isabel Av and Libertador Av (4774 9452). Open: Dec-Apr noon - 8pm Tue-Fri; 10am-8pm Sat, Sun. May-Nov noon-6pm Tue-Fri; 10am-6pm Sat, Sun. Admission: $3; free under -12s; free Wed.
  
• Museo Evita. 2988 Lafinur St, between Gutiérrez and Las Heras (4807 9433/0306) Open 1pm-7pm Tue-Sun. Admission: $5.
• Museo de Arte Popular José Hernández. 2373 Libertador Av, between San Martín de Tours and Coronel Díaz. (4803 2384). Open 1pm-7pm Wed-Fri; 10am-8pm Sat, Sun. Admission: $3; free under -12s.
  

Palermo Viejo

Away from the high rises, open spaces and views of the river, Palermo Viejo (Old Palermo) clusters. Most of the homes here are just one or two storeys high, and the town houses, come with terraces and long dark entrance ways. There´s a literary/boho past here as evidenced by the street called Borges and the Plazoleta Cortázar (at the junction of Borges and Honduras -sometimes referred to by its former name, Plaza Serrano), but these days there´s far more emphasis on house music and cocktails than literature.
Run down and romantic until the early 1990s, Palermo viejo has since been thoroughly brightened up by restaurants -serving cuisines from all corners of the globe- and fashion and design outlets marking up smelling candles, oversized cushions and art books. For open-air drinks, Plazoleta Cortázar has long been popular.
Such has been the impact of new money on Palermo Viejo that the food and lifestyle boom has spilled across the barrio´s limit at Avenida Juan B Justo -formerly famous as the north-western limit of BA´s zona roja (red light zone), but now emptied of trannies after a government clean-up campaign -to the trendy sub-barrio once called Pacífico, but now known as Palermo Hollywood to the number of TV production companies based there.

Elsewhere in Palermo

Fringed by the polo ground and racecourse is a buzzing residential and dining district known as Las Cañitas. A popular focal point for the moneyed socialites of Palermo and Belgrano, there is little in the way of historical interest by day, though the Cañitas Creativa street fair on Fridays and Saturdays at 6pm brings in visitors. Nearby, BA´s mega-mosque and religious centre, the Centro Islámico Ray Fahd, is at Avenidas Bullrich and del Libertador.
One of the Palermo´s most intriguingly named unofficial sub-barrios, located just to the south of Plaza Italia, is called Villa Freud, in reference to the large number of pshycoanalysts who work there.

Sightseeing - South of the Centre

Monserrat
It´s a particularly good barrio for those who like nosing around old churches. The Basílica de Santo Domingo and the adjoining Basílica Nuestra Señora del Rosario, at Defensa and Belgrano, are important 18th century centres of worship. One of the towers of the former was punctured by bullets during the two almost laughably incompetent English Invasions of 1806 and 1807. The flags seized from the vanquished invaders are on display in the far corner, left of the altar.

• Manzana de las Luces. 272 Perú St, between Moreno and Alsina. (4342 3964). Open: noon - 3pm Tue Wed & Fri; 3pm - 7 pm Sat Sun. Admission: free, guided tours $2.
• Museo de la Ciudad. 412 Alsina St and Chacabuco (4331 9855) Open: 11am - 7pm Mon-Fri; 3pm-7pm Sat Sun & public holidays. Admission: free.
  

San Telmo
Heading to San Telmo from the Plaza de Mayo, Defensa and Balcarce are the most pleasant and scenic streets to walk along. The former is lined with antique shops while the latter is a quieter, cobblestoned street packed with tango venues and tiny cafés. While walking you will pass several of the tattered mansions and drooping balconies that give San Telmo its unmistakable mood and appereance. To see the inside of an 1880 house, visit the lovely Pasaje de la Defensa (at 1179 Defensa St), a refurbished two-storey mansion now bristling with souvenir stands.
On Sundays, Plaza Dorrego, one of the few plazas in the city where you can eat and drink al fresco, is taken over by traders, providing one of BA´s most popular days out.

• Museo de Arte Moderno. 350 San Juan Av, between Defensa and Balcarce (4361 1121). Open 10am-8pm Tue-Fri;11am-8pm Sat. Closed: Feb. Admission: free.
• Museo de la Caricatura "Severo Vaccaro". 1037 Lima St, between Carlos Calvo and Humberto Pirmo (4304 6947). Open: 3pm-8pm Thur, Fri (call in advance to arrange guided tour) Admission: free.
• Museo del Cine. 1220 Defensa St, between San Juan y Cochabamba (4361 2462) Open: 10am-7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-6.30pm Sat Sun. Admission free.
• Museo Histórico Nacional. 1600 Defensa St and Casaros (4307 1182) Open 11am-5pm Tue Fri; 3pm-6pm Sat; 2pm-6pm Sun. Admission: $2
• El Zanjón de Granados. 755 Defensa St, between Chile and Independencia (4361 3002) Open: 11am-5pm Mon-Fri (tours on the hour) Admission $20.

La Boca
With its seedy cantinas and crowded tenements, the waterfront quarter of la Boca still feels like the melting pot where tango was first cooked up a century ago.
This working-class barrio, which derives its name from its location at the mouth of the Riachuelo, stretches from the river right up the roundabout where Paseo Colón Av becomes Martín García Av, and where a mast and 3-D frieze announce that you are entering the "República de la Boca".
Set back from the river, on Brandsen, is the reason why people who have never been to BA have heard of La Boca -the stadium Alberto J Armando, best known as La Bombonera, where football team Club Atlético Boca Juniors have held court for nearly a century. The Museo de la Pasión Boquense, is located adjacent to the stadium´s entrance. From the museum´s entrance a disused railway track runs down Garibaldi (where fugitive Nazi Adolf Eichmann lived from some years before Mossad caught up with him), which comes out two blocks later at the back end of Caminito, a short, banana shaped pedestrianised theme street.
The Riachuelo, which for over a century was a repository for cattle carcases and chemicals, is still nearer black than brown in hue. Progress has been made in cleaning it up, but the only real change has been to remove the rusty barges that gave La Boca some character.

• Caminito
• Museo de Bellas Artes de La Boca Benito Quinquela Martín. 1835 Don Pedro de Mendoza Av. (4301 1080). Open: 10am - 5pm Tue-Fri; 11am - 5.30pm Sat, Sun. Admission: suggested contribution $1.
  
• Museo de Cera. 1261 Del Valle Iberlucea St. (4301 1497) Open 10am - 6pm Mon-Fri; 10am - 8pm Sat, Sun. Admission: $6.50; free under -6s.
• Museo de la Pasión Boquense. 805 Brandsen St (4362 1100). Open: 10am - 7pm daily (closed on match days). Admission: $12 museum only; $20 museum & tour; 50% discount concessions. Credit cards: AmEx. DC, MC, V.

Sightseeing - The Centre

Plaza de Mayo

BA's central square, the Plaza de Mayo, first laid out in 1580s, is still the city's focal point and a logical starting point for an exploration of the places, people and events that created it.
At the plaza's center is the Piramide de Mayo, an obelisk raised in 1811 to mark the anniversary of the May revolution.

• Catedral Metropolitana. Av. Rivadavia y San Martin (4311 2845). Open: 8am 7pm Mon-Fri. 9am-7.30pm Sat.Sun. Admission: Free
• Museo de la Casa Rosada. Hipólito Yrigoyen 219, between Balcarce and Paseo Colón (4344 3802). Open: 10am-6pm Mon-Fri. 2pm-6pm Sun. Admission: Free.

Avenida de Mayo

Opened in 1894. Despite some decay, fine European style buildings with exquisite architectural details abound. Heading west from Plaza de Mayo, the first highlight is the Gallic La Prensa newspaper building, from 1896, crowned by a Pallas Athena statue and now the city's government Casa de la Cultura. On the corner of Santiago del Estero is the Hotel Chile, with it's fine examples of Art Noveau detailings. Another stunning building marks the avenue's west end. With its two slender domes the Edificio de la Inmobiliaria, built in 1910 for an insurance company, is an eclectic celebration of several styles.

• Casa de la Cultura. Avenida de Mayo 575, between Perú and Bolivar streets. (4323 9669) Open: Feb-Dec 8am-8pm Mon-Fri; by tour Sat,Sun. Closed: Jan. Admission: Free.
• Palacio Barolo. Avenida de Mayo 1370, between San José y Santiago del Estero.

Congreso & Tribunales

Plaza del Congreso is the popular name for the three squares filling the three blocks of the Palacio del Congreso. The western section of the plaza is dominated by the Monumento a los Dos Congresos, built in memory of the first constitutional assembly held in 1813 and the Declaration of Independence three years later in Tucumán. The monuments centrepiece is the statue of the republic, propped up by a plough and waving a laurel branch.

To visit the rest of civic Buenos Aires a good starting point is Diagonal Norte, running north-west from Plaza de Mayo. The avenue is a masterpiece of urban harmony: every building is ten storeys tall with a second-floor balcony.

Diagonal Norte links the Plaza de Mayo with the barrio of Tribunales, where the law courts are sorrounded by solocitor's offices, law firms and kiosks selling legal pamphlets. At the end of 2003 the block between Cerrito and Libertad was pedestrianised. The avenue's dead end is the Palacio de Justicia, seat of the Supreme Court and a popular venue for public protest. Stretching out in front as far as Avenida Cordoba is Plaza Lavalle, an attractive green spot rich in history and sprawling ceibo trees. Across the Plaza, and filling a whole block, is the famed Teatro Colón.

• Centro Cultural San Martín. 1551 Sarmiento St., between Montevideo and Paraná streets. (4374 1252) Open: From 8am daily. Admission: Free.
• Museo Nacional del Teatro. 1199 Cordoba Av, and Libertad St. (4816 7212) Open: 10am-5.30pm Mon-Fri. Admission: Free.
• El Obelisco. 9 de Julio Av. and Corrientes Av.
• Palacio del Congreso. 1849 Hipólito Yrigoyen St., between Entre Rios and Combate de los Pozos. (4370 7100) Closed: Jan. Admission: Free.
• Teatro Colón. Cerrito St., between Tucumán St. and Viamonte St. (box office 4378 7344/tours 4378 7132)

Microcentro

It's every claustrophobe's sweat-soaked nightmare; weekdays during business hours the whole downtown district is a maelstrom of porteños shopping, working, running, shouting, flouting traffic laws and generally fulfilling their big-city stereotype. For sightseeing purposes (and there's plenty to see) try to visit the area at the weekend.

The motherlode of the mayhem is Florida street, the only completely pedestrian street in Buenos Aires. It was once an elegant thoroughfare but has now gone the way of most of the world's elegant thoroughfares and became unashamedly commercial. however, amid the human statues, money changers and leather hawkers, you can still find traces of its refined past. Lavalle (for pedestrians only between San Martin and Carlos Pellegrini) on the other hand, makes Florida look chic and classy.

Close by is Avenida Corrientes. Up until the 1970s it had a coffee-drinking, literature-loving nocturnal scene, where bohos would meet to plot revolutions and -more reallistically- from rock bands. It's still BA's main theatre strip.

• Museo Histórico y Numismatico del Banco de la Nación Argentina. First floor, 326 Bartolome Mitre St., between 25 de Mayo and Reconquista streets. (4347 6277). Open 10am-3pm. Mon-Fri. Admission: Free.
• Museo Mitre. 326 San Martin St., between Corrientes and Sarmiento. (4394 7659). Open:1pm-6pm, Mon-Fri. Admission: $1.

Retiro

Retiro's main attraction is its open space, the well shaded green swath that is the lovely Plaza San Martín. This natural bluff stretches down to three railway terminals, beyond which lies a jumble of official buildings and the dock's where named after San José de San Martín, Agentina's revered liberator. According to protocol all visiting dignataries must lay a wreath at the Monumento al Libertador General San Martín, the city's most important monument. It's a marble and and bronze equestrian sculpture created in 1862 by the Frenchman Louis Daumas.

Several impressive buildings surround the Plaza. To the south-west is the gargantuan Palacio Paz, the largest private residence in the country and once home to Jose C. Paz, founded of the once important La Prensa newspaper.

At the edge of the Plaza, the Palacio San Martín (761, Arenales St) was built between 1909 and 1912 for Argentina's answer to the Rockefeller's, the Anchorena family. It opens for guided tours most Thursdays and Fridays.

On the opposite side of the Plaza is the Basilica del Santísimo Sacramento at San Martin 1039, the french exterior hiding an inner sanctum decorated with flemish and Italian handiwork. The Edificio Kavanagh next door also points heavenwards -at 120 metres (349 feet) this art deco landmark was South America's tallest building when it was inaugurated in 1935.

At the very foot of the plaza is an obsidian marble cenotaph dedicated to those who died in the 1982 Malvinas war. An eternal flame burns in their memory.

• Museo de Armas de la Nación. 750 Santa Fé Av., between Maipú and Esmeralda (4311 1071) Open: 2pm-7pm Mon-Fri. Closed: Jan-Feb. Admission: $3.
• Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano Isaac Fernandez Blanco. Suipacha 1422, between Arroyo St. and Libertador Av. (4327-0228) Open: 2pm-7pm. Tue-Sun. Admission: $3 (free on Thursday's)
• Torre Monumental. Plaza Fuerza Aerea Argentina, opposite Retiro train station. (4311 0187) Open: noon-7pm Thur-Sun.

Local delight´s

Empanadas

Empanadas are pastries filled with meat, ham, cheese or vegetables and are a typical dish for the northwest Argentina. Served both as fingerfood appetizers or as a whole meal.

* La Querencia

* La Cupertina

* La Pascana

Dulce de Leche

A spread made of sugar and milk. It´s a part of Argentine identity and a fundamental ingredient in their cuisine. Dulce de leche is widely used in Argentine confectionery and desserts, and can accompany ice cream, cakes and puddings.

Best ones: Chimbote, San Ignacio, La Salamandra

Alfajores

Tha alfajor is every argentine´s favorite confectionary. This Dulce de Leche filled biscuit has delighted generation after generation. There are numerous brands which you can find in every "kiosco", but the really legendary one is the Havanna alfajor.

* Havanna

Mate

Mate is a tea-like beverage consumed mainly in Argentina and Uruguay. It is brewed from the dried leaves and stems of the "yerba mate". The infusion is sucked through a metal pipe called "bombilla" which has a strainer at its lower end to prevent the minced leaves from reaching the mouth. In traditional mate use, the cup is often shared among close friends and family, using the same straw. Though it´s the national drink, people enjoy it at home, with friends and with a unique ritual.

Meat

Meat is Argentina´s most famous dish. We can call it: Asado (meaning barbecue, but it´s also a kind of meat cut (asado de tira)), parrilla (meaning grillroom or steak restaurant, grill itself or to the meat and "achuras" that are grilled on it).

* La Dorita

* La Brigada

* La Cabrera

* Cabana Las Lilas

Wines

Argentine wines are among the best in the world. The most famous wine region is at the east base of the Andes in the province of Mendoza.

For red wine, Malbec is the quintessential Argentine grape. It is the only 100% international quality variety and is the ideal accompaniment for traditional Argentine cuisine such as empanadas and asado. For white wine the most representative is Torrontes.

Ice cream

Our ice cream is amazing. Try it and tell me if it's better than italian ice cream!! And don't miss dulce de leche flavour!!!

This are the best ones in the city:

*Persicco 0810-333-7377

*Volta 0810-888-6582

*Freddo 0800-3337-3336

*Daniel 4896-1629

Useful information

• If you take a cab

tipping the driver is not a custom, although leftover small change is appreciated.

• If you take a bus

you pay for the ticket on the bus and need to have coins

• When you say hello

men shake hands; women kiss on the right cheek (only once)

• When you eat in a restaurant

tips are not included in the bills and are usually 10%-15%.

• Dinner time

Restaurants open for dinner around 8pm, but they become lively at 10pm and even later during weekends. Most restaurants serve until 1am.

• Nightlife

Argentineans stay up late. A nightclub wouldn´t be very lively before 2am in the morning. Dancing lasts until daybreak, especially during the summer.

• Shopping

If you buy something and you pay with a credit card, be sure to have a photo ID with you, they´ll probably ask for it.

• Standard exchange policy

If you buy something and then want to return it you won´t get your money back, but only the possibility of exchanging it for another item.

• Streets and locations

Whenever you ask somebody for an address, they would indicate the street first and then the number, and usually, between which other streets is that block located.

Vocabulary

• yes - sí
• no - no
• please - por favor
• thank you - gracias
• hello - hola
• good morning - buen día
• goodbye - chau
• good night - buenas noches
• excuse me - disculpe
• sorry - perdón
• cheers! - salud!
• people from Buenos Aires - porteños

Transportation

• Air

International flights operate out of the Ministro Pistarini International Airport, better known as Ezeiza (area where it is located) 47 km/29mi. from the city center using the Ricchieri and 25 de Mayo highways.

Domestic flights and flights to Uruguay operate out of Aeroparque Jorge Newbery city airport located at the Northern Riverside Drive (Avenida Rafael Obligado)

* Ezeiza/ J. Newbery Airports 5480 6111. www.aa2000.com.ar

* Aerolineas Argentinas 0810 222 86527

* Air France 0800 122 3010

* American Airlines 4318 1111

* British Airways 4320 6600

* Continental Airlines 4132 3532

* Iberia 0800 444 1024

* Mexicana 4000 6300

* United Airlines 0810 777 8648

• Driving in Buenos Aires

Vehicles are driven on the left side.

Porteños tend to drive fast and aggressively, paying little or no attention to traffic signs and regulations.

The public transport system is very well developed, allowing passengers to opt between buses, subways, taxis radio taxis and limousines.

Around downtown it is difficult to find parking space owing to the large number of vehicles on the streets.

Only taxis and buses are allowed into the downtown area during working days, so if you have to go there during rush hour, take a radio taxi, subway or bus.

CAR HIRE

* ABC rent a car 4315 0313

* Dollar 4315 8800

* Hertz 4816 8001

• Taxis

Around 60000 taxis run the city's streets. They can be easily recognized by their colors - black and yellow. In addition a red light on the meter indicates that they are available.

It isn´t an expensive mean of transport. The meter marks the price beginning with $3,80 and adds 38 cents for every 200 metres/220 yards or minute of wait.

Examples of taxi fares:

Ezeiza - Downtown: $90-$120

Downtown - Palermo: $20-$30

Downtown - San Telmo: $10-$15

San Telmo - Recoleta: $15-$20

Radio taxis

Opposed to regular taxis, this service is provided by a private company that coordinates associates. They come pick you up wherever you are.

Main hotels and restaurants call the radio taxi for you.

* Premium 5238 0000

* Blue way 4777 8888

* Pidalo 4956 1200

• Subways

Five lines link the city center with the nearest suburbs. The service is safe and well lighted. Trains run every day form 6am to 10.30/11pm, and are fewer on weekends. ticket for one trip is of $1,10 and can be acquired for 1,2,5,10 and 30 trips.

• Train

Six train lines link Capital Federal with towns in the Gran Buenos Aires. They depart from Retiro to the north of the city and from Constitución to southern Buenos Aires.

• Buses

The bus (colectivo) is a fast and inexpensive mean of transport to travel over the Capital. There are more than 180 lines going through the city and providing connection with all the districts in the Gran Buenos Aires. The service is available at regular intervals. Sometimes, streets may be blocked in the downtown area due to traffic jams. The service is available all day long but its frequency decreases after 12 at night. Fare: $1,10 to $2. There is a ticket dispenser inside every bus that work´s with 5, 10, 25, 50 cents and 1 peso coins. No bills accepted.

ATM´s

Automatic tellers are numerous around the city. They may be used to obtain cash through the major credit cards like Visa and Mastercard. Many ATMs perform transactions in pesos and some in dollars.

Visitors Information

• Information Center of the National Tourism Secretariat.

0 800 555 0016 (toll free nationwide 12 hours a day 8 am to 8 pm)

• Information Office of the Government of the City of Buenos Aires

4311 0528 / 4314 0187 (monday - saturday 7.30 am 1 pm.)

Exchange

The Argentine currency is the peso. The rate of exchange varies from 3.7 to 3.85 pesos per U.S dollar. The high rate has turned Buenos Aires into an excellent destination to purchase premium products at incredible price.
You can find 2$, 5$, 10$, 20$, 50$ and 100$ bills. 1c, 5c, 10c, 25c, 50c, 1$, 2$ coins.