Chances to enjoy the Coast may seem rare in BA, but beside the big, brown river there are plenty of eating, strolling and nature-watching opportunities.
Puerto Madero and Costanera Sur
Puerto Madero - the dockland area to the east of Plaza de Mayo- first saw rejuvenation along the lines of London and Baltimore in the early 1990's with a new-look quayside, flashy restaurants and high-rent flats. Only recently, though, has the riverside zone grained some depth, with projects of a civic, cultural and commercial slant springing up along the promenades of BA´s newest barrio.
A short stroll to the south are the promenades of Puerto Madero's ever expanding dockland complex, a world created for the rich and beautiful. At the entrance to the quays, on the eastern side of Dique (Dock) 4, among the steel and glass of Madero Este (as the eastern side of the docks -now the focus of all the big investment bucks -is called), an art museum to house the collection of Amalia Fortabat, Argentina's richest women. It's an appropriate location: according to recent survey real estate prices in Madero Este area are now the highest in Latin America.
Stretching in front of the Sarmiento is the elegant Puente de la Mujer (Bridge of the Lady), an asymmetrical pedestrian bridge designed by Spanish engineer Santiago Calatrava. Opened to acclaim in December 2001, the bridge's US$ 6 million construction costs were stumped up by Alberto R Gonzalez, late owner of much of Madero Este , including its Hilton Hotel. The Hilton now faces competition from the Faena Hotel + Universe, a Philippe Starck-designed hotel.
Beyond Madero Este is an altogether earthier experience , the River Plate's other urban jungle. This is the Reserva Ecologica Costanera Sur, BA's biggest wilderness on the edge of the city. The long esplanade skirting the reserve is one of the city's most pleasant spaces for walking, sunbathing and inhaling something other than sulphur dioxide. A lavish 1927 beer keller, the Cerveceria Munich, houses the centro de Museos from where all the city's museums are administered. A tour of the picturesque pub gives an insight into how the good life used to be lived by rich weekenders.
Puerto Madero and Costanera Sur
Puerto Madero - the dockland area to the east of Plaza de Mayo- first saw rejuvenation along the lines of London and Baltimore in the early 1990's with a new-look quayside, flashy restaurants and high-rent flats. Only recently, though, has the riverside zone grained some depth, with projects of a civic, cultural and commercial slant springing up along the promenades of BA´s newest barrio.
A short stroll to the south are the promenades of Puerto Madero's ever expanding dockland complex, a world created for the rich and beautiful. At the entrance to the quays, on the eastern side of Dique (Dock) 4, among the steel and glass of Madero Este (as the eastern side of the docks -now the focus of all the big investment bucks -is called), an art museum to house the collection of Amalia Fortabat, Argentina's richest women. It's an appropriate location: according to recent survey real estate prices in Madero Este area are now the highest in Latin America.
Stretching in front of the Sarmiento is the elegant Puente de la Mujer (Bridge of the Lady), an asymmetrical pedestrian bridge designed by Spanish engineer Santiago Calatrava. Opened to acclaim in December 2001, the bridge's US$ 6 million construction costs were stumped up by Alberto R Gonzalez, late owner of much of Madero Este , including its Hilton Hotel. The Hilton now faces competition from the Faena Hotel + Universe, a Philippe Starck-designed hotel.
Beyond Madero Este is an altogether earthier experience , the River Plate's other urban jungle. This is the Reserva Ecologica Costanera Sur, BA's biggest wilderness on the edge of the city. The long esplanade skirting the reserve is one of the city's most pleasant spaces for walking, sunbathing and inhaling something other than sulphur dioxide. A lavish 1927 beer keller, the Cerveceria Munich, houses the centro de Museos from where all the city's museums are administered. A tour of the picturesque pub gives an insight into how the good life used to be lived by rich weekenders.
- Buque Museo Fragata Sarmiento: 900 Alicia Moreau de Justo Av and Belgrano St. Dock 3. (4334 9336/86/89). Open 9am-8pm daily. Admission: $2; free under -5s.
- Reserva Ecologica Costanera Sur: 1550 Tristan Achaval Rodriguez Av, between Brasil and Estados Unidos (4893 1588 freephone 0800 444 5343). Open: Apr-Sept 8am-5.45pm Tue Sun. Oct-Mar 8am-6.45pm Tue-Sun. Admission: free.
- Museo de Calcos y Esculturas Comparadas: 1701 Tristan Achaval Rodriguez Av, Costanera Sur (4361 4419). Open: 9.30am-noon. Tue-Fri; 11.30am-5pm Sat. Admission: free.
Costanera Norte
North of town, skirting the Aeroparque Jorge Newbery -the city airport that runs the length of Palermo- is a traditional promenade. One of the few places where the mud-coloured river laps close to the land, the paved thoroughfare contains numerous restaurants and is thronged most Sundays with anglers, walkers and mate-supping, picnic-eating day-trippers. Cyclists have the slalom their way through the crowds, though a new bike path has eased congestion. The main road -Avenida Costanera Rafael Obligado - hums with traffic heading out of the city and the boeings zooming overhead make the noise pollution almost comic. But it's dramatic in an urban jetsetter kind of way, and at least you can turn your head and watch yachts gliding across the water. The city's beach clubs, where thousands of families go to beat the heat during the sweltering summer months, dot the avenue.
At the southern end of the airport is the chalet-style Club de Pescadores, a private fishing club of which Carlos Gardel was once member. The pier is for the club's anglers , but visitors can dine in the airy restaurant. North of the airport is wacky religious theme park Tierra Santa which has become one of BA's most popular attractions since opening at the turn of the millennium.
On the final northern curve of the Costanera Norte, close to the Ciudad Universitaria, is the Parque de la Memoria, which is being developed in remembrance of Argentinian victims of human rights violations under the 1970s military dictatorship. Completed in 2005, the park's central work is the Monumento de las Victimas del Terrorismo de Estado, containing stone tablets bearing the names of Argentina's 'disappeared', many of whom where drugged and then thrown to their deaths from planes into the adjacent river. The Plaza de Acceso includes works of American sculptors Dennis Oppenheim and William Tucker.
For a boat trip along this part of the river, head to Puerto Madero's Darsena Norte (Northern Harbour), from where the Galileo makes a two hour tour on weekends.
North of town, skirting the Aeroparque Jorge Newbery -the city airport that runs the length of Palermo- is a traditional promenade. One of the few places where the mud-coloured river laps close to the land, the paved thoroughfare contains numerous restaurants and is thronged most Sundays with anglers, walkers and mate-supping, picnic-eating day-trippers. Cyclists have the slalom their way through the crowds, though a new bike path has eased congestion. The main road -Avenida Costanera Rafael Obligado - hums with traffic heading out of the city and the boeings zooming overhead make the noise pollution almost comic. But it's dramatic in an urban jetsetter kind of way, and at least you can turn your head and watch yachts gliding across the water. The city's beach clubs, where thousands of families go to beat the heat during the sweltering summer months, dot the avenue.
At the southern end of the airport is the chalet-style Club de Pescadores, a private fishing club of which Carlos Gardel was once member. The pier is for the club's anglers , but visitors can dine in the airy restaurant. North of the airport is wacky religious theme park Tierra Santa which has become one of BA's most popular attractions since opening at the turn of the millennium.
On the final northern curve of the Costanera Norte, close to the Ciudad Universitaria, is the Parque de la Memoria, which is being developed in remembrance of Argentinian victims of human rights violations under the 1970s military dictatorship. Completed in 2005, the park's central work is the Monumento de las Victimas del Terrorismo de Estado, containing stone tablets bearing the names of Argentina's 'disappeared', many of whom where drugged and then thrown to their deaths from planes into the adjacent river. The Plaza de Acceso includes works of American sculptors Dennis Oppenheim and William Tucker.
For a boat trip along this part of the river, head to Puerto Madero's Darsena Norte (Northern Harbour), from where the Galileo makes a two hour tour on weekends.
- Tierra Santa.5790 Costanera Rafael Obligado Av. (4784 9551). Open: May-Nov 4pm-12.30am Fri-Sun. Dec-Apr 9am-9pm Fri: noon-11pm Sat, Sun. Admission: $15; $4 under -11s. Credit: MC, V.
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